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Thread: How do you customize a Suick Thriller?

  1. #1
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    How do you customize a Suick Thriller?

    Greetings,

    I have the boat put away for the season. I was thinking about fishing-related projects for the upcoming winter season. I was thinking about customizing a few of my Suick Thriller dive/rise pull baits. Specifically, I was thinking about tying some bucktail and flashabou to the rear treble hook. Any thoughts on how this might influence the lure's performance in the water?

    How do you customize your Suick Thrillers?

    Good fishing and tight lines!!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Steve Heiting's Avatar
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    I would NOT add bucktail or flashabou, which will create drag and kill the bait's action. I am one of those who prefers some side-to-side waggle to a Suick, rather than a straight up/down motion. Even if you prefer up/down, the drag of bucktail or flashabou would cause your bait to run shallower.

    I like to add a screw-in weight system to my wooden Suicks of 9 inches or larger to create versatility. Take the weight off, and the bait is great around weeds. Add weight, and you can get it to dive deeper along deep weed edges or rocks. https://www.muskyshop.com/modules/ca...ScrewInWeights

    To further alter the depth the bait is running, bend the tail up or down. The bait will dive deepest with the tail bent straight out the back, and shallower if you bend the tail down. To straighten or adjust its waggle from center when pulling it, turn the screw eye slightly.

    I also "T" the hooks so they don't carve up the sides as badly. I think they hook better this way, too.

    Sometimes if the bait won't run right, check the cotter pin hook hangers. Sometimes they get twisted by a fish in the net, and this can throw the whole action of the lure off.
    Steve Heiting

    www.steveheiting.com

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    You might get away with adding a very sparse flashabou skirt and not kill the action? You would have to experiment. It is an interesting idea because I could see it maybe triggering a following fish. Many bass lures have a feather tail on the rear treble to do just this.

    Besides the weight system Steve mentioned, there is another trick you can try. I floated one of my favorite Suicks in the sink. Then I set barrel weights on top of it until it slowly sank and suspended level. Then I drilled holes in the belly side at the locations the weights were at. I inserted the weights and put epoxy over them. I ended up with a suspending Suick. It works great if they aren’t chasing fast rising lures as it sinks down and stays in their face.
    Last edited by 1morecast; 11-30-2016 at 09:18 AM.

  4. #4
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    Guys,

    Many sincere thanks for the suggestions!

    The suggestions of adding weights makes sense to me. I have some weighted and some unweighted Suicks - they each have their special situations. The weighting system makes sense in terms of making any given bait more versatile. I will check into this.

    The comment about NOT using material on the rear hooks makes sense, in terms of changing the drag/resistance of the bait coming through the water. On the other hand, I've heard of guys adding a tail-gunner blade to the tail of Suicks. Maybe a few short strands of tinsel or a feather on the rear hook might work??

    Up to now, I've tried tuning my Suicks by bending the tail blade (up and down) and also "dog earing" one corner of the tail blade. This technique sometimes works well for me in pursuit of a walk-the-dog (left....right...left...right) motion. My collection of Suicks tend to fall into one of these categories: right handed only, left handed only, walk-the-dog or straight. That is, the dog-earing technique doesn't always get me there.

    I haven't yet tried turning the screw eye. I'm not sure about what is meant when saying "turn the screw eye". If I were to hold the lure so that the screw eye faces me, I can see using a pliers to rotate the screw eye either clockwise or counter clockwise. I can also envision using the same pliers to bend it to the right (to 3:00 o'clock on a clock's face or to the left (towards 9:00 o'clock on the clock's face). Your thoughts please?

    I never gave any thought to the cotter pin hook hangers. I need to check these out when I go through the tackle boxes this winter.

    Many kinds thanks for the suggestions!

  5. #5
    Senior Member Steve Heiting's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BornToFish View Post
    If I were to hold the lure so that the screw eye faces me, I can see using a pliers to rotate the screw eye either clockwise or counter clockwise. I can also envision using the same pliers to bend it to the right (to 3:00 o'clock on a clock's face or to the left (towards 9:00 o'clock on the clock's face). Your thoughts please?
    You got it. All of the above. I have a couple whose screw eye is nearly horizontal. Whatever it takes to get the action you want. You'll find the screw eye matters more than the tail in changing the angle the bait dives.
    Steve Heiting

    www.steveheiting.com

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Heiting View Post
    I would NOT add bucktail or flashabou, which will create drag and kill the bait's action.
    And if you nee proof of this, just watch what happens when you get a weed on the rear hook. I know it happens when I get a weed on mine and it works for crap.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Heiting View Post
    You got it. All of the above. I have a couple whose screw eye is nearly horizontal. Whatever it takes to get the action you want. You'll find the screw eye matters more than the tail in changing the angle the bait dives.
    I've been replacing standard Suick screw eyes with heavier models too, figure it gives me a few more grams of weight forward and I feel better about the HD attachment point. I wouldn't necessarily recommend this for all baits, but especially if the screw eye gets bent or loose, this will ensure a well anchored screw eye.

  8. #8
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    I do a couple of mods on all my Suicks.

    First I ALWAYS replace the split rings with the Wolverine triple rings. And I change the hooks to Owner 2x or 3x heavy, although I have used VMC and Gamakatsu hooks as well.

    As has already been mentioned, I add a screw in weight system to every wood Suick. Usually I want to run as deep as possible, and still be positively buoyant. If I want a slow sink to go countdown I can add weight, or if I need to work over the top of shallow weeds I can remove all the weight.

    Adding some weight to the 7" wood Suicks is a good way to get them to run true and deep. I used to have a lot of trouble getting the 7"ers to run properly in the past (I consider myself a pretty good Suick tuner), but the weight system has solved that issue. The tip about checking the cotter pins that hold the hooks is a good tuning tip.

    That said, I haven't found a weight system that includes a small enough weight that won't automatically sink a 7" Suick, so you usually have to take the smallest weight, shave it down a little at a time and then test it, to make sure it gives the buoyancy you want.

    Another mod on my dark backed Suicks is to paint a flat white, hot orange, or hot yellow dot (about the size of a quarter for a 9" Suick) so that I can see the lure as it approaches the boat in stained water, on overcast days and at dusk. Sighting the bait earlier and deeper as it comes boatside really helps my timing on those last special joop twitches, and it also helps me key into the lure so that I can spot those "low and slow" follows in dark water.

    More recently I've added glow tape to the backs of both light and dark colored Suicks and I've found that this really helps to go into the eight at the correct point in the retrieve when it is dusk and approaching dark. You can achieve the same thing by marking your line with thread wraps so that you can "feel" the right point without the tape, but the glow gives me a better reference point when I'm staring into black water at prime time. Glow beads on the leader work too, but there is a glow tape from an outfit called PS Love Outdoors (no affiliation) that really lights up and is much easier for me to see. I don't think it puts off the fish in meso water. I have no experience with it in oligo water.

    Another mod I like is to take a large J tail grub such as the 6" Kalin's Mogambo tail (for a 9" Suick) and to cut off the body about a quarter to half and inch before the start of the "J" and to thread the remaining tail section onto an Owner Twistlock pin. The clip on tail can then be looped on to the pin that secures the Suick's diving tail to convert it to a squirrelly Suick. Be sure to loop it onto the topside of the metal tail. As long as you cut off the bulk of the grub body when making the clip on J-tail the Suick will still run plenty deep albeit with less side to side motion, but the added action like all squirrelly tails, is pretty sweet.

    "T"ing the hooks has also been mentioned and as noted it reduces hook rash especially on wood baits.

    Replacing the screw eye with a larger diameter (.091") longer stainless steel version and adding some thin CA glue when setting it is also something I do. I like the added insurance of the glue, but it doesn't readily allow the eye tweaks that others have mentioned for getting more side to side walk.

  9. #9
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    I use a lot of Stealth tackles weighted leaders on Suicks they add a lot more hop to the bait and also act like a hinge and shoot the bait side to side more also.
    I use the 3/4 and 1oz on 9" Suicks depending on depth I want to achieve and a 1oz on all my 10" Suicks.
    I upsize the front 2 hooks on both 9".s and 10" seems to really help with hookups.
    Jeff Hanson
    madisonmuskyguide.com

  10. #10
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    Cool tip, I'll have to try the weighted leaders.

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