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Thread: Converting from mono to Braid

  1. #11
    Senior Member Steve Heiting's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf0503 View Post
    Thanks all. Steve what do you think would be the easiest to use (backlashes & wind knots) for a fisherman going from mono to Braid? Or all the pretty much easy to convert to?
    Backlashes are usually the problem of the fisherman or the reel. If you pack the line down tightly as I described, backlashes won't be the line's fault. The spool controls on today's reels can almost make backlashes a thing of the past, too, but they still occur as fishermen get tired, cast light baits into the wind, or the reel requires oil.

    The latter issue (oil) is huge. Oil not only lubricates the reel, but creates a tension on the spool that smoothens the casting process, thus easing or eliminating backlashes. As the reel begins to need oil, this tension goes away, and the angler also has a tendency to overcompensate for a reel that isn't casting as far by overcasting. Overcasting with a now more-slowly-spinning spool can easily cause a backlash.

    Wind knots occur when they occur. I see a couple every year and wonder how in heck they were formed.

    All the braids I've fished with are good ... PowerPro, Tuf-Line, Cortland, Sufix, High Seas will all get the job done.
    Steve Heiting

    www.steveheiting.com

  2. #12
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    1 vote for SpiderWire Stealth here. I use it for catfishing too in all kinds of debris and snags. In my experience Power Pro is more brittle and snaps easier. It's also stiffer. My cousin uses Suffix 832 and it seems in between Power Pro and SpiderWire Stealth. But when he backlashes he snaps off like 3 lures a trip. I've backlashed a pounder before in high wind/waves and haven't broke the Spiderwire. The Suffix seems a bit louder too. Some people say they don't like the little frays that Spiderwire can get after the coating wears off. I use that to guage when to cut off a couple feet of line rather than having it randomly snap. The only real downside to it is once the coating wears off, it does retain some water. But this is no issue in the summer months as the sun and wind usually dry it out so you don't even notice. It's just in November it can get cold on the hands quickly. I should probably cut it off sooner and be back to a freshly coated section. The tracer yellow wears off right away though so I'd stick to the green or the Glow-Vis. My favorite is the Code Red but they don't make that anymore. The coating on that lasts forever it seems. Next I want to try Cortland as I've heard great things about it. I've never had a need to switch as Spiderwire has never let me down but I think the blue Cortland on my Abu NACL and Big Nasty would look killer so it's purely cosmetic. Everyone has good and bad experiences with every brand though so the best is to try them all or give one a shot and had your buddy try another and trade and see which you like best. It's pretty much the same as picking a reel. To a certain extent you need size and gears to match the right application but once you narrow it down to similar products it just comes down to what feels best to each person.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Heiting View Post
    Backlashes are usually the problem of the fisherman or the reel.
    ---I know I need to improve my casting and backlashes. But how? Thumb the spool more? All my reals have maximum breaks applied.

    The latter issue (oil) is huge. Oil not only lubricates the reel, but creates a tension on the spool that smoothens the casting process, thus easing or eliminating backlashes. As the reel begins to need oil, this tension goes away, and the angler also has a tendency to overcompensate for a reel that isn't casting as far by overcasting. Overcasting with a now more-slowly-spinning spool can easily cause a backlash.

    ---I use quantum Hot Sauce on all my reals. I tend to over oil as apposed to under oil
    .

    Wind knots occur when they occur. I see a couple every year and wonder how in heck they were formed.

    All the braids I've fished with are good ... PowerPro, Tuf-Line, Cortland, Sufix, High Seas will all get the job done.
    Thanks Steve See my additions (---) and see you agree or disagree or what you can add. Anyone

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf0503 View Post
    Thanks Steve See my additions (---) and see you agree or disagree or what you can add. Anyone
    The reel is a big part of backlashes... although ultimately it's the fisherman who controls the reel. Some issues can be adjusted with brake blocks, but reel performance is largely a matter of design.

    I found the Daiwa Luna and AC300A reels backlashed relatively easily, especially if you tried to push the distance with a lighter lure.

    I found Revo Toro reels cast further than the AC300A's, with less tendency to backlash.

    Last season I switched to Daiwa Lexa 300 and 400 reels, which have a magnetic cast control. When properly set this feature dramatically reduces backlashes. I will say my worst backlashes last season were when I shut off my magnetic control and attempted a long cast, having forgotten to set the cast control.

    I learned to cast with a Pfleuger Supreme baitcaster, a revolving spool reel. I learned how to cast that reel with few backlashes, so modern reels are much easier, but when the fingers are freezing in late October, your feel on the spool is diminished, and a good reel does help!

    Regarding line and backlashes, I found that Spiderwire Stealth in 100 lb test was my best line using St. Croix AC300A and Revo Toro 60's, whereas 65 and 80 lb test seems to work best on Revo Toro 50's and Lexa 300's.

  5. #15
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    okay here's an easier question for you all. What helped you transition from mono to Braid? Or how did you do it?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf0503 View Post
    okay here's an easier question for you all. What helped you transition from mono to Braid? Or how did you do it?
    One day on Pelican lake in the late 70's I had a nice musky grab a bucktail attached to a reel I had just respooled with 20 lb test mono. The hook set felt like pulling on a rubber band. Off came the musky and the mono... back to dacron, which had much of the same feel as modern superlines, but was much more prone to wear, thicker and not nearly as strong.

  7. #17
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    You are way over thinking this. I went to PP when it first came out. A little pricey compared to mono but you can run it for yeArs on a reel. Put backing on your reel, learn how to tie a power knot and you will never go back to mono on your musky setups.

  8. #18
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    I'm just trying to think how it will be for me now that I'm making the change. Us being musky nuts I thought that the wealth of knowledge could help me out here.

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