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Thread: Converting from mono to Braid

  1. #1
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    Converting from mono to Braid

    What do I need to know besides the knots for casting? I figure I can just release the bail for trolling or cast out then engage the motor. Thumb the spool a lot I'm guessing.
    Last edited by Wolf0503; 02-05-2015 at 08:05 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Steve Heiting's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what some of your questions mean, but here are some quick guidelines for using braid for muskies, instead of mono:

    1. Buy at least 65-pound test, up to 100-pound test. Braid doesn't stretch, so its Achilles heel is its shock resistance. Go with heavier line to keep it from breaking, but also to avoid the line from cutting into the spool under pressure. 65-pound test has the diameter of 16-pound test monofilament, so this isn't a big deal. 65 is actually still a little light, and most people use 80-pound test (18-pound test mono equivalent). In areas of heavy structure or cover, you may wish to go to 100 (20-pound test mono equivalent).

    2. Don't strip all the mono off your reels. Rather, leave the spool about 20-25% filled with mono, and tie your braid to the mono and spool up. This accomplishes two things: a.) Braid is expensive, and the mono backing will save you some money; b.) Mono won't slip on the spool, whereas if you tie braided line directly to the spool, it will slip and you'll be able to pull line off the spool even if your drag is tight. If you feel you must tie braid directly to the spool, put a small piece of black tape or duct tape against the knot and spool to keep the line from slipping.

    3. Spool up with the line under tension. This will help "pack down" the line to the spool and help prevent backlashes later. Being slick, braid can get squirrely on your spool if you don't do this. To further pack down the line on the spool, some will let out a lot of line with a hard-pulling bait (large crankbait or twin-ten) and then reel it in.

    4. Spool up to within about 1/8-inch from the edge of the reel's spool.

    5. Tighten your drag to the point you can hardly pull it out by hand. This should be enough to set the hook on a musky, which is the first goal when one bites. Don't worry about breaking your rods on the hookset because you won't. If you feel you must loosen the drag while fighting a fish, you can always back off the drag a quarter-turn.

    6. The single-best knot for tying braid to a leader is the power knot (see illustration). Otherwise, an improved clinch will work and some like the palomar knot. You do not need super glue to hold the knot in place.
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    Steve Heiting

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  3. #3
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    Thanks Steve. Yea I was going to get 80# or 100#. I tried power pro a while back and it just dug in to itself.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf0503 View Post
    Thanks Steve. Yea I was going to get 80# or 100#. I tried power pro a while back and it just dug in to itself.
    There are many brands of braided superlines, and they do vary substantially in texture, thickness and shape. Personally, having used what I believe was the original superline exclusively for some years, and trying anywhere from 40-100 lb test, I ran into some quality issues, such as line severed half way through a new spool. I also didn't like how the green color quickly washed off.

    Over the past few years I've been using several braids, including Spiderwire Stealth, Fireline and Spiderwire Ultracast. If I was to settle on a single line, it would be Stealth, as it's available in my favorite line colors, lb tests, easy to find, and priced competitively.

  5. #5
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    I know I'll probably get 10000 answers to this question but what is your Favorite Braid and why?

  6. #6
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    Suffix 832, switched from power pro. Had a one bad experience so when it was time to respool I switched. One season in on Suffix and no problems. I'm not saying Power Pro was bad but confidence is worth something.
    Last edited by piesox; 02-05-2015 at 05:36 PM.

  7. #7
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    Still running PowerPro here. It has never disappointed me. Much more colorfast than it used to be years ago. No more looking like a leprechaun murderer the first day with new line.

    My 2nd choice is Cortland masterbraid, seems to carry more water back up than PP though.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Steve Heiting's Avatar
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    I've pretty much used it all and found practically every braid is pretty good nowadays. Years ago there was a huge discrepancy between lines, but not so now. I worked with PowerPro for years before the company was sold to Shimano, and to Shimano's credit the line remains excellent.
    Steve Heiting

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  9. #9
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    Thanks all. Steve what do you think would be the easiest to use (backlashes & wind knots) for a fisherman going from mono to Braid? Or all the pretty much easy to convert to?

  10. #10
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    Has anyone ever used Sufix 832 Advanced Superline, 150-yd., Ghost, 80#?

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