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Thread: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

  1. #1
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    Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    Was thinking that in all my years of musky fishing , that I only caught one smaller musky on the rear treble hook on a three treble hook lure ,, was a smaller fish on a figure-8 on a Suick ,,, however, that last hook has caught my coveralls/sweatshirt/raincoat and got tangled up in the net ,,,, I have caught a bunch of pike on that last treble hook , seems as though they attack from the rear/tail of the lure quite often ,,,,,,,, thinking about removing the 3rd treble hook ,,,,, what do you think ??? ---------- Jocko

  2. #2
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    Specifically with regard to 9 and 10 inch Suick jerk baits, this year I got so sick of fouled hooks that I replaced the 2nd and 3rd hooks with smaller short-shank Owners.

    Even then the standard front hook would foul the 2nd hook, but less frequently. I hate to go with a short-shank hook on the front.

    I'ved also tried using weedless hooks on the 2nd and 3rd hanger, but then I lost a couple of fish, so don't feel comfortable with that either.

    I will say the problem can be largely avoided by using the 12 inch model, which allows enough space between hook hangers that the standard hooks don't get fouled on each other... just once in a while on the wood body itself.

    Have the similar issues with Hawg Teaser baits, which I prefer to the Suick. I tried using shrink wrap on the split ring and hook, but sometimes the hook would hang off to one side, which would screw up the retrieve due to the lure being out of balance.

  3. #3
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    Bad idea in my opinion.

    This year I had an experience where I missed 4 muskies (probably) in a row casting. All hit with a quick little rap, I set the hooks and then felt the hooks pull out. I was going crazy. I had just sharpened them two of the times just before it happened, but these hits were far out and no visible evidence was to be had. Then I had a musky follow in and hit the Suick boatside. It felt identical to the other hits and this time I saw it barely open its mouth enough to get over the top of the back hook and when I set I saw it pull out. Now if I couldn't get hooks with razor sharp points and watching the hit, how would you get hooks with none there?

    Another time, I was using a Suick and following "expert" advice of cranking down the drag and pounding the fish, against my better judgement. Well I had a nice hit, it stopped the Suick dead almost at the end of a little pull and I unloaded on the fish with the drag cranked down and my thumb locking the spool. The rod bent double, I said "Fish" and it was gone. Realed in the Suick and the rear hook was bent open! So there is another time you wouldn't have even had a chance with no hook there.

    I don't know about you, but I have a hard enough time getting hooks with them all on the bait when the fish aren't committing suicide. Removing the back hooks just plain doesn't make any sense, unless you cannot possible get the lure in without fouling weeds with the back hooks on. Even trolling this year, I had fish barely caught on the back hooks and that as you said is pretty unusual to see fish on those hooks. But, when they aren't hitting good, you need every advantage you can get to hook up.

    I say, keep 'em all on the lure!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Steve Heiting's Avatar
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    >Have the similar issues with Hawg Teaser baits, which I prefer
    >to the Suick. I tried using shrink wrap on the split ring and
    >hook, but sometimes the hook would hang off to one side, which
    >would screw up the retrieve due to the lure being out of
    >balance.

    Hi Bruce:

    Instead of shrink-tubing, use a piece of plastic grub. Remove the hook, thread it onto the shank of the treble, and replace the hook. It will act as a bumper and keep the hooks away from the sides of lure and each other. Also, if you "T" the hooks, this will help keep the hooks from fouling on the bait.

    Steve Heiting

    www.steveheiting.com

  5. #5
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    I am all in favor of the rear hook. Those bad aim rize and swpiers seem to get that hook especially in late fall. This is true for glides and erratic baits especially. I have some baits that foul hooks repeatedly but they produce fish. I have some baits that have ony two hooks and wish they had three becuase I lose alot of fish on them.

    www.frvmuskie.com
    http://www.jomusky.com/
    http://www.zaltnad.com/
    http://www.hoosierhandmademuskybaits.com/
    www.H2otackle.com

    Which end is the sucker on?

  6. #6
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    My largest Muskie hit at boat side and kinda jsut nipped the lure and I hooked it on the rear hook, after releasing the fish teeth marks were on the last 1/4 inch of the lure.

  7. #7
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    I've removed the middle hook and replaced the front and rear with larger hooks and never have had a problem hooking up. It seems to help the bait stay balanced also. I have only really done this with smaller twitch baits though, so not sure how it would work on larger baits.

  8. #8
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    Steve,

    Appreciate the tips. I'll give it a try, and I like the quality of both the Hawg Seeker and Weedless Warrior jerk baits, but have been frustrated by fouling. (I sometimes replace the Weedless Warrior weedless hooks with standard hooks)

    Thanks,
    Bruce

    >Have the similar issues with Hawg Teaser baits, which I prefer
    >to the Suick. I tried using shrink wrap on the split ring and
    >hook, but sometimes the hook would hang off to one side, which
    >would screw up the retrieve due to the lure being out of
    >balance.

    Hi Bruce:

    Instead of shrink-tubing, use a piece of plastic grub. Remove the hook, thread it onto the shank of the treble, and replace the hook. It will act as a bumper and keep the hooks away from the sides of lure and each other. Also, if you "T" the hooks, this will help keep the hooks from fouling on the bait.

    Steve Heiting

  9. #9
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    If you do it, you will one day be very, very sorry.
    It only takes one, and you'd better hope it's not a giant.

    I've caught lots of fish that were either solely on the back hook, or shook out a front/middle hook leaving only the back one pinned.

    I wouldn't even entertain taking off a hook.

  10. #10
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    RE: Remove rear crank/jerk bait treble hook ??????

    I would never consider removing the rear treble. What i have done on certain crank baits or jerk baits where the hooks have tangled is to remove the middle treble on say a suick and replace the front and back hooks with a little bit larger hook or the other thing you can do is replace the long shank hooks with shorter shank hooks, which can also eliminate tangling. I've done the same thing with certain crank baits. I have hooked more fish on the front treble on my suicks than any other hook. I don't feel/believe not having the middle/belly hook has reduced my hooking percentages with the bait.

    rnovak

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