View Full Version : Jig fishing and line

09-14-2009, 09:05 AM
For those who fish jig/reapers and curtis creatures ect what type of line and of what pound test? (50 pound super braid or light mono?)
Any thoughts?

09-14-2009, 09:42 AM
No difference in line for me (80-100lb test braid) vs other setups.
The only diff is in the leader - straight wire, with no snaps or swivels at the jig end (leader tied straight to the jig).

09-14-2009, 12:30 PM
I'm with Jeff. I tend not to be specific with the line I'm using, although I don't do it for much more than sight fishing, so that may be why. I usually have 65 or 80# braid. Although I use Tyger leader for my leaders, tying direct to the jig like Jeff as well.

Some of the guys specifically throwing jigs as a main bait though are using 17# mono I believe (Steve Worrall).

The Stik
09-15-2009, 07:05 AM
I use a heavy bass rod, a GLoomis 904. The line I use is 50lb power pro, it's much easier with lighter jigs.

I have used wire leaders, but prefer flouro direct to the jig. I don't use a swivel I use a small O ring similar to what's on a jerkbait leader. I have used this system for about 6 years with sucess and no failures.


09-16-2009, 12:12 PM
Thanks for the replies, I use a lighter 7 foot St. Croux rod one of my older baitcast reels. My jigs are all pretied with leaders (Jacks,cobras,and Curtis Creatures)Used both 20# and 50# Spectron in the past.Like the brand in shallow water but kinda bows in deep water.

09-16-2009, 11:37 PM
From the rod down. I use 17# mono with a bullet sinker then a swivel. Seven strand wire tied to the swivel and then tied to a large plain jig hook. Then the plastic rigged weedless on the jig hook. This is quite weedless and the jig hook acts as a keel to keep the plactic from spinning. It also gives better hookups and resists the hook moving and tearing the plastic. I bury the wire knot on the hook into the nose of the plastic so there is nothing to catch weeds.

I've been using plastics in the fall for 25 years and started with jigs and that evolved into the above over the coarse of several hundred muskies. We would drift/drag/cast this rig on structure lakes.

Today this technique is good but less effective due to all the plastic baits being thrown around. Back in the day when only a few people were using plastic it was a killer tactic.

Bone lake is now known for being a jig lake. My cousin's Father-in-Law developed the jig/creature technique 35-40 years ago for this lake. I did this for years maybe 15 or so and I developed the above rig. We always kept the baits out of site at the landings and around boats and man did we ever catch muskies. Eventually I saw a few others using the technique and now everybody does and it is now much less effective.

Interesting enough I know how the word got out. Talked to a guy who had a cabin on the lake who watched us catch alot of fish out front of his cabin. It was a really good spot there that we pounded alot and he got a spotting scope to see what we were doing.

Those days were fun.

09-17-2009, 01:05 PM
For smaller creatures and reapers I've used 1/3 oz jigs I got from Steve Worrall about 30 years ago.

For line, I've used 17 lb test Stren high-vis mono, 30 lb test Fireline and 50 lb test Stealth. I'd say my favorite with these lighter jigs is probably the Fireline... with a lighter rod with good backbone, though the high-vis mono works fine.

For 3/4 oz jigs and 6 inch shads I like the 50 lb Stealth with the same rod.

If I'm fishing a 1-1/2 oz jigs and a larger shad (9 inch) I'll go with 80 lb Stealth and really like the MI BullDawg Spring 8 foot rod.